A Guide to Understanding Skincare Ingredients
A Guide to Understanding Skincare Ingredients
Posted by Katrina McClelland March '25
If you're like me and love diving deep into skincare products, or if you've ever found yourself squinting at the tiny text on the back of a skincare bottle, this guide is for you!
Let me walk you through everything you need to know about ingredient lists – from the basics to the sneaky details that brands might not want you to notice.
"Ingredients are listed from highest to lowest concentration, up to 1%. After that, brands can get a bit creative with their ordering."
What's an INCI Name Anyway?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. Think of it like a universal language for skincare ingredients. For example, when you see "argania spinosa kernel oil" on a skincare product, that's just a fancy way of saying argan oil.
The Ingredient List Rulebook (EU & US Style)
Since working in the skincare business for over a decade, here are two golden rules I've learned:
Rule 1: Use the Official Ingredient Names
Brands should use the standardised INCI names. A proper ingredient list looks something like this:
- Aqua/Water
- Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
- Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Rule 2: Weight Matters
Ingredients are listed from highest to lowest concentration, up to 1%. After that, brands can get a bit creative with their ordering.
Red Flags to Watch Out For
I've become a bit of a detective when it comes to ingredient lists.
Here are six warning signs that might make me think twice about a product:
-
- Using common names instead of official INCI names.
- Vague terms like "essential oils" or "parabens".
- Duplicate ingredients
- Incomplete ingredient lists
- Unrealistic claims about active ingredient percentages
- A product saying it's 'fragrance free' and the ingreident list states 'parfum' - that's a perfume, it's not frgrance free!
What Can You Really Learn from an Ingredient List?
You can:
- Identify ingredients you want to avoid
- Check for ingredients you're looking for
- Get a rough idea of the product's potential effectiveness
The Limitations (Because Nothing's Perfect)
Let's be real – ingredient lists aren't magic. There are things you can't determine:
- The exact source of ingredients
- The precise feel of the product
- The ultimate effectiveness of the formulation
My Hot Take
It's a bit like cooking. Just because you know the ingredients doesn't mean you'll be a Masterchef. But would you rather go into a meal blindfolded or know what's on your plate?
For those of us who love our skincare, reading an ingredient list is like a treasure hunt.
Take the JUARA Oceania Skincare range, for example – understanding their ingredient list can help you choose products that really work for your skin.
Understanding a brand is also key - eg; all JUARA products are created for senitive skin, so you won't ever find any 'nasties'.
My journey toward better understanding the ingredient list led me to discover JUARA Oceania (juaraskincare.co.nz), a brand that beautifully bridges evidence-based skincare science with the power of traditional botanical ingredients.
What initially drew me to their products was their transparency about ingredients and their commitment to using beneficial botanicals with scientific backing.
Happy decoding, fellow skincare enthusiasts!
"Pro tip: Don't get overwhelmed. Start by learning a few key ingredients, and you'll soon become an ingredient list pro!"
- KATRINA MCCLELLAND
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